Southern Charm (Charleston)

I never realized the full extent of the phrase “Southern Charm” until I landed in Charleston at 11pm on a Thursday night last week. From the moment I stepped out of the airport into that sweltering Charleston humidity until the moment I stepped back into the airport, sad to return to NYC, I was treated with nothing but the utmost respect, civility and kindness. Of all of the cities I’ve been to in the south (and I’ve been to a few over the past few months), Charleston trumps them all.

In addition to the general culture of warmth and kindness, the architecture and history of Charleston are fascinating. Houses and buildings in the historic district abide by strict regulations to maintain their impressive historical integrity. The mansions sprinkled throughout the historic district date back to the birth of the United States through the Civil War era, referred to as colonial and antebellum architecture. A lot of the history of the city revolves around the Civil War, and as much as I’ve learned from and agreed with the perspective of the northerners/the Union growing up, it’s still interesting to understand and see where the confederates were coming from and how they were treated from a Charleston perspective.

People in Charleston like to avoid discussing certain truths with respect to their history. For example, if you go on a carriage ride (discussed below), the word “slave” will barely be uttered except to explain that if you see a “1/2” used in the numbering of a building, in the past that building was likely used as slave quarters to the related whole-numbered house. To me, as upsetting as it is, I thrive on learning these historical truths. It helps to understand what a city and its citizens are about – helps explain why until last week the state of South Carolina was flying the confederate flag (thank god they took it down!)

On that introductory note, on to happier things like how amazing the city of Charleston truly is!

To Do in Charleston

Carriage Tours: This is by far the most popular touristy activity in the historic district of Charleston. The carriage tours provide you with insight into the way life used to be, starting at the market and taking you around the popular mansions and churches of Charleston.

City Market: The city market on Market Street is one of the most historic places in the city. It was developed in the 1790s and acted as a place of trade and meat sales in the past. Nowadays, it is a place for local vendors to sell souvenirs and southern specialities, such as baked goods, grits mix and sweetgrass baskets, a Charleston speciality brought over by West African slaves and passed down generation by generation.

King Street: For clothing shopping, high end and lower end, King Street is the place to go hands down.

Tease: Looking for a good blow out to match that southern style? Tease on King Street is the only blow dry bar in the city and its fab!

Plantation Tours: The plantations are actually outside of the downtown city area, about a 20-30 minute drive, but are an integral part of the city and its history, and a fascinating look into antebellum living. There is even a tea plantation, the only one of its kind in the US.

The Battery/South of Broad Walking Tour: For another look into Charleston grandeur, take a walk south of Broad Street. Start at Meeting Street and walk down towards The Battery, a sea wall used as fortification for the city during the Civil War. Along the way you will pass a number of historic mansions and other buildings. There is also a beautiful garden in The Battery area called White Point Gardens, full of military equipment that was actually used in the past and now on display. From the park, head back north up East Bay Street, where you will come upon Rainbow Row, a group of 13 Georgian row houses, the largest group of such houses, painted in various pastel colors (hence the name), and eventually reach numerous dining options back in the city center.

Wentworth Mansion: Wentworth Mansion is a former mansion that has now been converted into a boutique hotel. It’s a great place to check out to see the inside of an actual home, and has a splendid rooftop cupola and actual rooftop with 360 views of the city.

 

Trolley: The city has a free trolley service that runs along a major portion of King Street and also stops by The Charleston Museum.

Haunted Jail Tour: Hosted by Bulldog Tours, this tour goes through the Old City Jail, previously home to pirates and war prisoners.

To Eat in Charleston

There are so many yummy places here, I was actually pleasantly surprised by the variety of good dining found in Charleston. Here are a few picks:

Husk: I’ve now dined at both locations of this fabulous southern-inspired restaurant and it was just as good for brunch in Charleston as it was for dinner in Nashville.

Slightly North of Broad: Another great brunch dining option touted as a “low country bistro”.

Pearlz Oyster Bar: A local favorite for seafood dining right by the water.

The Vendue Rooftop: a trendy rooftop bar with amazing water and city views.

O-Ku: If you are looking to change up the dining from typical southern food, this is the place to go. Hip and affordable with great sushi and Japanese food.

Stars: With a live fire wood grill and an old school charm, Stars is the place to go for more upscale fine dining.